I travel to my customers within a one-hour radius of 8545 Rickenbach Sulz. Longer distances are possible by arrangement. The cost of the saddle test/adjustment is CHF 220, and this amount includes the rental of a test saddle for one week. Delivery and initial fitting of the new saddle is free of charge. The cost of further checks and adjustments is calculated according to effort involved. Experience has shown that it is difficult for both the horse and the rider to test more than two or three saddles in a row. Please therefore tell me your ideas in the contact form in advance, but also about your horse's special features and problems as precisely as possible. Please send me current photos of your horse and also one of you standing next to your horse so that I can get an idea of the size ratio. The horse should * stand on level ground * place approximately equal weight on all four hooves and stand as straight as possible * carry the head/neck as straight as possible and at a "normal" height Please allow around two hours for the saddle fitting so that we can all work in peace and you have enough time to test ride the test saddles extensively. It is also important that we can stand in a covered, dry place if possible. The horse should be clean and dry. Please bring the CHF 220 plus the travel costs for the saddle fitting/test saddle rental in cash to the appointment or pay via TWINT.

For adult horses that are regularly trained and that have not changed their circumstances (change of stable, change of feed, etc.), an interval of 1-2 saddle checks per year is recommended. For horses that are still growing (usually up to the age of 8), whose training or feeding has been changed, or for horses that are being re-trained after a long period of illness, the intervals between fit checks should be shorter. After purchasing a new saddle or after reupholstering an (existing) saddle, a follow-up check should be carried out after approximately 12 weeks.

Especially with young horses, I think it is important to choose a saddle that can be adjusted to the horse's changing stature. It doesn't necessarily have to be new, but it has to fit. The advantage of new saddles is usually a fit that corresponds to the latest findings in horse anatomy and biomechanics. The new saddle can be optimally adjusted to you and the horse. With used saddles, you often have to expect compromises for the horse or rider.

Saddle girths come in a variety of shapes and materials, making it difficult to decide. But even when buying a saddle girth, there are many things to consider to ensure that it is comfortable for your horse. Here are a few thoughts on the subject of saddle girths: The girth should be about a hand's width behind the horse's elbow so that the front leg can swing back and forth unhindered. Optimal pressure distribution over as much surface area as possible makes it comfortable for your horse and allows your horse to completely let go under the rider and walk correctly. Sharp edges, heavy dirt and materials that are hardly or not at all breathable should be avoided. When tightening the girth, always slowly tighten the girth from both sides alternately for more even pressure. The buckles should end up in the same hole on both sides, if possible. When using saddle girths with elastic bands, please never tighten them too much. It is best to avoid elastic bands altogether, as this can quickly lead to girths that are too tight and can hinder your horse's breathing. Saddle girths are divided into two categories: Long belt Long girths are most commonly found on eventing and jumping saddles. The girth straps of the saddles are hidden under the saddle flap. Advantages: It is easier to tighten the girth from above. There are no annoying girth buckles on the lower leg. Pressure is distributed evenly around the horse's entire torso. Disadvantages: The girth buckles can put unpleasant pressure on the rider's thighs. You may not feel quite as close to the horse. How long does the girth have to be?: The length of a long girth should be such that when the girth is fully fastened, the girth buckles are in the middle hole of the girth straps. This leaves enough room to move up and down if the horse changes a little. Short belt A short girth is often used on dressage saddles, which have longer girth straps than an all-purpose or jumping saddle. However, there are also dressage saddles that have a long girth system. This can be ordered from many manufacturers on request. The buckles should never lie directly on the horse without a pad and must be well padded, otherwise they cause pressure. Advantages: The buckles do not cause pressure points under the rider's thighs. The rider feels closer to the horse. Disadvantages: Tightening the girth from above is a little more difficult. In addition, you don't have the pressure distributed across the horse's entire torso. How long does the girth have to be: If the short girth is too short, the horse will feel uncomfortable pressure on its ribs from the girth straps. In addition, the girth buckles are often too low. This means that the elbow hits the girth buckles or rubs. There are sensitive nerves just above the elbow area, which can cause problems if the girth rubs/press there. The general rule is: as long as possible, as short as necessary! When fully fastened, the short girth should reach to the lower edge of the saddle pad. to form Girths come in all sorts of shapes. It all depends on your horse's anatomy. Straight girth: *for horses with a normal girth position *The girth runs vertically downwards *should have enough distance to the elbow *should not disturb the horse's movement Anatomical girth: *for horses with a normal girth position *better freedom of movement in the elbow area, as the belt is cut back slightly *usually cut a little wider in the chest area - increases the contact surface Asymmetrical belt: *for horses with a less well-defined girth position *if the girth does not have the necessary distance to the elbow, this girth shape is recommended *very good elbow freedom Moon belt: *for bellied horses with mostly very round rib cage *prevents the girth from slipping forward *very good elbow freedom Athletico: *for horses with an athletic & strongly wedge-shaped body type *prevents the saddle and girth from slipping backwards.

The storage area for your saddles and other accessories should be easily accessible and as close as possible to the grooming area so that you can always keep an eye on your horse. The right climate for your saddle Your saddle should not be stored in a place that is too wet or too dry. The optimal storage temperature is 10-15°C. Saddle rooms that are too wet encourage the formation of mold, while those that are too dry make the leather porous and brittle. Unfortunately, drying out is very difficult to reverse. The saddle can warp and become crooked. So never store your saddle in direct sunlight, do not leave it in a hot car or near a heater for long periods of time. Incidentally, extreme cold/frost is not harmful to your saddle, unlike dry heat. If you have already stored your saddle incorrectly or if your saddle is oily/moldy, clean it thoroughly with saddle soap and then lightly grease it. You can also put a water container in the saddle room to moisten it. If your saddle is wet after a ride in the rain, let it dry slowly and do not try to speed up the process with heat. The saddle holder is also important. The saddle holder should meet several criteria. Firstly, the saddle should be able to be laid down stably. Please also pay attention to the material. Lime, concrete and similar materials should not touch your saddle. This can dry out the saddle and make the leather porous. Ideally, the saddle should be stored on a wooden holder. The saddle pads should hang freely so that no pressure points can form. Simple wooden bars that lie in the spinal canal are actually best. The saddle pad should also always be hung up separately to air and dry. A breathable saddle protector is recommended to protect against dust and dirt.

It is obvious that a saddle with a rigid tree that fits a trained horse may no longer fit optimally after a break due to injury. It is a challenge to fix a rigid saddle on a flexible horse in such a way that the horse's back is not damaged. Especially when the horse undergoes changes due to internal or external influences, adaptation becomes even more difficult. The most common causes of changes in horses are: Training: Through training, the horse's muscles and body shape can change for the better or the worse. A trained muscle can grow by up to 30% in just a few weeks. A saddle must provide space for this growth in order to ensure the horse's long-term well-being. Injury: After an injury, the horse's anatomy can change due to a lack of training stimulus, which affects the fit of the saddle. Age: As the horse gets older, its body shape and muscles change, which may require regular adjustment of the saddle. Feed: Seasonal changes in the horse's coat or weight can also affect the fit of the saddle.

Im Zusammenhang mit dem Gesamtbild (Pferd-Sattel-Reiter als Einheit) kann ein Schweissbild als sichtbare Stütze dienen. Als alleinige Beurteilungsgrundlage ist es nicht ausreichend. Die Schweiss- und Staubbilder hängen stark von der Art und Dauer der Belastung und vor allem dem Können des Reiters sowie der Ausbildung des Pferdes ab. Ein schlecht sitzender Reiter kann einen passenden Sattel ins Negative ziehen. Ein guter und ausbalancierter Reiter kann leichte Passformmängel im besten Fall sogar ausgleichen. Hinzu kommen auch Probleme durch weiteres Equipment wie störende Nähte, Kunstfell an Schabracken, Gurtform und die Qualität der verwendeten Materialien. Auch der Fellwechsel verändert so manchen Abdruck. So vieles hat Einfluss auf die Passform des Sattels und schlussendlich somit auch auf das Schweissbild. Grundsätzlich gilt: Viel Schweiss = mehr Bewegung / weniger Druck, Wenig Schweiss = mehr Druck / weniger Bewegung. Zusätzlich wird von aussen nach innen geschwitzt. Ihr werdet von mir keine Ferndiagnose eines Schweissbildes erhalten, wenn ich nicht selbst vor Ort war und das Gesamtkonzept gesehen habe. Denn nur im Zusammenhang mit allen anderen Komponenten sollte man ein Schweissbild deuten.